April 2011 - Restoration of a Stanley #62 Low Angle Block Plane.
Purchased
as a "Challenge" to myself, 
the condition of this plane was probably "Fair -"
or
"Poor -", whichever the lower may be. The usual cracks at the mouth,
plus bad chips or chunks broken out. Surface Rust, Cracked Tote and
Spur broken off, damaged Adjuster, pitted Blade, missing Throat Plate Adjuster
- as I said: "Poor -".
The Usual stress cracks at the Mouth plus bad chipping. I suspect this happens from either or all of the following:
1. Dull or Blunt Blade
2. Too heavy cut
3. Used to chop at cranky grain or a knot
"B" casting marks date this Plane to about 1900. All parts were original including the Blade.
 First, to tackle the Base and the ugly, butchered mouth.
Of the several ways to clean cast iron including mechanical, chemical and electrolytic, I prefer electrolysis as it doesn't damage the metal at all - rotary wire brushes scratch and tear the metal, sand blasting can damage the surface, acids will pickle the surface.
Two sessions in the electrolysis bath with a scrubbing inbetween and all the gunge is off the surface.
Next is to file out the damaged mouth at the same angle as the inside face on which the blade sits - taking care not to go any deeper than this face as I want the new piece of mouth to be inline with the old so as to keep filing and cleanup to a minimum. One of the problems with filing the inside of a Stanley #62 is the boss inside which is in the way.
  Cut a piece from the body of an old plane to fit into the filed area. it needs to be at least 1mm wider on each side to allow for melting and rounding off, otherwise more metal needs to be added.
The pic on the right shows the new piece in place prior to welding.
Welded.
Cast Iron Fusion Welding with torch, CI filler rod and flux.
The parent metal is melted and new molten filler rod added.
Welded across the back then the sides and in front of the new insert providing a new mouth which is fixed all around.
Showing the weld on a side.
Care must be taken not to have too much heat - see next Pic....
 Slump! Or should I say Shoot (probably did, or something similar).
Too much heat and a big blob of molten weld pool slumped through the other side.
There is a very fine line between not enough and too much heat, not being able to see the underside makes it worse.
Not just a simple filing cleanup anymore but a job for a die grinder - I use a Dremel.
 
The first grind reveals a couple of problems but mostly OK. The flaws will be spot drilled and weld filled.
After some work with the Dremel and files, the inner bed is finished.
Pic on right: trimmed one of the sides.
Many years ago I used Black Epoxy enamel but now I prefer Black Shellac and bake to refinish old Stanleys
 Next to tackle the Tote. 
The break is clean with no damage so the repair is relatively simple: soak in Methylated Spirit to clean and draw the oil from the Rosewood away from the repair area, dry and glue with fresh good quality SuperGlue. Trim the top and add a block of Rosewood of similar colour the shape and sand. It will be finished with Shellac and Wax.
For extra strength I added an inner tube of brass which was epoxied in place. The hole was trimmed with round file, insert the tube and test to make sure the Screw lined up prior to gluing then let it cure 10 min.s before removing from the Plane and cleaning any excess glue from the Screw.
The Knob had cracks to be repaired, I needed to make a new TP Adjuster, clean the rest of the parts and assemble.
Since I want to use this plane, not just sit it on the shelf, I will prepare a Premium blade in preference to the original.
An IBC A-2 cryo 60-62Rc about 3mm thick will be a nice replacement. To achieve an approach angle of 55 degrees, I'll need to hone at about 43 allowing for the 12 degree Bed angle.
The finished Plane, ready for work:
 
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